Wednesday, March 31, 2010

random stuff

back when Eno was acting like he was going to give me the "bat pig" he made with my name on it i saw this board on his blog.
...a surfer is one that understands flow...

John Bramwell's ...from the deep south

i'd love to see this one sliding some SICK south africa point surf.


thinking about this wave....the anticipation of it...the satisfaction you would get from surfing it...that is not twaddle, nor is it drivel, nor is it gobbledygook, nay bunkum, nay poppycock, nay piffle.
if i were on the wave below i would not be in a state of tumult, nor would i be in a fracas state, nor would i be thinking of starting a it with out saying... i would not be feeling any bedlam.
i love surfing nice waves on a board i understand. surfers are some of the luckiest beings on the planet.

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

wavegliders and the piggie!

Rui from wavegliders sent me a link to his blog: wavegliders check it out! they have a piggie in the mix! "The new longboard from Wavegliders, inspired by the PIGs from the 60's. Wide point way back and a narrower nose."

Monday, March 29, 2010

...surfing wave...

surfing heritage foundation

the Surfing Heritage Foundation is such an amazing organization. their website should be checked regularly. I hadn't checked the site out in a few weeks...then I stumbled upon this.. this "gem of the week"
there was some writing on the back of this photo :
This photo was donated by the Bascom family and was given to Willard Bascom by Ron Drummond. On the back of the photo is a hand-written note which reads:

"The inner peace that comes with the quiet contemplation of a beach on a still calm morning, or the feeling of exhilaration that comes from riding a great wave in a small boat, is more reward than most will ever know."
Willard Bascom
This we have in common!
Ron Drummond

Sunday, March 28, 2010

gnar narcissistic PIG!

so my buddy paddles up to me today and says: "dude you BLEW it...yesterday morning...and then again today at the crack...where were you?!" i replied : "feeding dogs and making chocolate milk for my wife". he then said "dude you should call you blog' the narcissistic pig' " ... he has a point. i figured with friends like this...who needs more friends? ...i love my friends. i NEED my friends. good friends are the best ego checks. you can't buy that shit.
i still caught a few..even though i REALLY MISSED IT. YOU SOULD HAVE BEEN HERE YES-TAR-DAY!! i had one of those sessions where i was totally relaxed and just happy to be alive out in the ocean on a board i love and trust. my first wave was nuts. it swang wide ...the pocket was made for my board. it made my week. then i got a few more. one was a great wave for cut backs. i managed to squeek out two cutbacks that felt right on this one peeler.

i was speaking to one of my buddies out in the water today. i was talking to him about life's priorities. i was speaking about how my life is going through a priority shift right now. how good it feels. it occurred to me then, that life is like a garden and life's passions are like the garden's various plants... one plant might catch your attention longer or more intensely than others...however..there are other beautiful fruit bearing plants in the garden...what about them?

surfing is one of those pursuits in life that will save your life and hinder your life simultaneously.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

mustache 47

so before stokefilms i had this gig with speefnarkle. this is the type of shit that is mostly insane...but some of it is FUNNY. every now and again i'll be posting shit from them days. i sent a departmental memo to the archive department of STOKE FILMS, LLc that had them contact the archive department at speefnarkle. their team pulled these episodes. I had my people contact their people in an effort to demonstrate how STRICTLY professional we are. for this mustache treatise we wanted to portray a low budget, highly conceptual , post sophomore high school year feel. we nailed it!
in this episode my character (duke stone) lands a mustache.

below lance sidewinder (casanova) talks about what it means to be a mustache pilot.

perez gets a maintenance call from magnum

puke goes hunting

puke succumbs to the mustache and finger-guns his way to "sport"

and etches love notes on the turds of a worm.

i've come looking for stone...shoehorn has been abducted.

Friday, March 26, 2010

gunna go ride some waves, MAN!

some people think .9999...= 1. i say "so, who cares."

luke in SD and a SOUTH COAST

luke in SD sent me this via
"This is an old IB South understanding is that it was shaped by Richard Jolie (the Joker)-#5058...I love this board, with a singing fin and everything! Luke in SD"

Thursday, March 25, 2010

taking it back then.

what a life i live.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010


i am jealous of myself. that sucks. narcissism defined. if i saw some @sshole walking down the beach with one of these boards...i'd try to beat him up...i am not a violent person...but COME ON! LOOK AT THESE FOCKERS! check out GENE's BLOG for more ....
below: these "flex pigs" need to have jigs built to keep the rocker right. thanks be to Gene for honoring life.


i just recently watched TRON and "clash of the titans". i was pumped on both of these movies way back when. its amazing what has become of the definition of movie.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

treasure! (in the texture)

when i was young I always wanted to find a buried treasure. how metaphorical! now i know I have found the was just buried in the here and now. i shot all these pictures with my phone on my walk down to sliders this morning. it was small and inconsistent. perfect for my equipment. I got a few nose rides , a nice cut back ..and a sweet curl shoot followed by a fly away kick out. i said "thank you" for that.

buford 3 years after he got away

David Potter and I have worked on some projects together prior to STOKE FILMS. back then it was david and speefnarkle. back in the speefnarkle days we filmed this story. when i say filmed ...i really mean filmed. david signed up for some class at an art school or something so he could get access to some turbo 16 mm camera he was ALL PSYCHED on. he would get F U C K I N G pissed if you messed up on a line. at least that is how i recall it. the logistics behind this project were INSANE. david had a group put together. we filmed in portland oregon. we built sets and staged a disco party. we drank a lot of yuban coffee. it was classic. david bought a few people's plane tickets. it felt like we might be becoming actors. i had a gnarly sinus infection the entire time. my voice sounds weird. this story is nutz. david had this friend that was super popular back in high school. this buddy accepted the part of kobak , the lead janitor. to practice for the part this guy learned how to flip plungers all about like he was tom cruz in that bar tending top gun style movie tom was in. anyway...this high school buddy didn't really understand his part...i mean although he had been practicing for the part...he was practicing the wrong shit. he just didn't get what his character was all about. eventually david had him "act robotic".

eventually we finished the script. david put a trailer together...that was that. we made this project in 2001. after the filming turned out that kobak never got out of his character, he had some kind of episode that involved breaking into some strangers house and sitting in their lazy boy drinking all the beer in their fridge. eventually the "stranger " got home and found him in the lazy boy...or something like that. any way some time spent in a "institution" followed for david's buddy. when the dude got out, david interviewed him. we are going to release kobak 6 janitors on acid eventually. the story is essentially about two feuding janitorial teams that are wanting to win this years "janitor team of the year" award. the "shit vipers" (my {hog ball's} janitorial team) needs to take down the competition (the "turd slayers" {kobak's} team). my team decides to spike the other team's coffee with acid. that backfires on us because the inspector that judges the event drinks some spiked coffee and has a good trip. we have some gorillas in the mix too.

here is a reminder about Jazz the Glass April 10th!

Saturday, March 20, 2010

anthropological study of stuff

so i surfed these waves today after tutoring. days like this are good. i enjoy a day where I can sleep in with the missus, be a positive contributor to my community, and do full rail cutbacks, fade left swing right bottom turns, nose rides, and some SWEET curl rides... i'll take it.

i had this song in a me head the entire session. i wish that on no one. i think it has something to do with the fact i rented "clash of the titans" today.

here are some videos i shot today.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Russell Pierre sends another shot of that slide 65

to surf

i surfed after work yesterday. something about what my life has been like just recently made last night's session feel different. it was a warm evening. i feel like surfing's meaning has changed so many times in my life. at times it feels like such a selfish masturbation. other times, it feels like a societal normalizing factor that I owe my community (therapy of sorts, i seem to make better decisions when i surf frequently). last night it felt like surfing. wave riding. that got me PSYCHED.
i shot the first pic right as i was walking up with my phone. richard holcombe shot the other.