check the video!
Bluey Mayes was one of the "last of the hard cutters". He grew up on Bondi beach and was an accomplished cookbox rider during the 40's and early 50's. Bluey was widely regarded as one of Australia’s best surfers in the mid 50’s. He really embraced the new Malibu boards based on the boards the American lifeguards bought to Australia in 1956. Describing the feeling of riding them as ecstasy. Bluey is no longer with us. He passed away in 1997.The second photo was also taken in 1958. The young bloke third from the right in the checked shirt is Midget.
Hey Mike, John Cherry and I shaped this 9'7" PIG. The fin is by John Cherry made with Balsa, Agave and Foam. Glassing: 8 oz Volan sanded gloss finish by Micheal Miller. The Pigs Dims: 9'7"x17"x23"x17 3/8"x3". I saw your Velzy Jacobs at his place and brought my template back up there to compare. Without ever seeing that Velzy Jacobs of yours our template ended up being almost identical. The only difference was the wide point, which is 23" and I believe the Velzy was 22.75". Our line has just a lil more curve. Nose and tail measurements were very similar as well. On this board because of the blank I ordered I had to bring the tail in from the template I had been itching to shape a board for years, after seeing the Blackboard model up in Ventura I decided that a Pig would be a great classic board to take a crack at. This is board #1 for me. I'm stoked on how it came out. Hopefully I'll be able to take it out tomorrow! Your blog is gnarly keep it up. Keep the stoke man, Bobby D
Mike, I finally took my pig out on yesterday morning at 15th street in Del Mar. There were some nice waist high peelers coming through. The tide was coming in and the wave was reforming and walling up on the inside. If I had to sum up my first experience on a pig i could do it in two words: Fucken Sick! That board turned like butter and when in trim flew stayed in the critical spot of the wave. Extremely stable. I was surprised with how wide the tail is that I could still do a huge cutback burying the rail and not eat shit. Then I could turn back into the face of the wave and it would get right back in the sweet spot. On my second wave when I got inside it walled up and where normally i would walk up to the nose I just stood there staring for a moment in amazement that this board was keeping right in trim. I'm hooked! Now to talk the wife into letting me get a flexpig from Gene. Take care, Bobby
ps - you may also like this Nelson/Ekstrom I picked up from a guy in OB SD before I left the US. Picked it up for $150 rode it all that summer, and when I brought it in to Channin's to fix it - I was working there for a while - they all blew a nut over it. Again, super fun piggy, with reverse cut fin, and asym tail...
your first pigs, i think I mentioned this...Velzy was making some pig designs. Just post kook box, post finless boards. the guys that were doing the first pigs, were doing this all in balsa. Velzy was still kinda in the quasi kook box style. a pretty flat top, and just rolling the rail. Quigg and Kivlin were also making pig templates out of balsa. They were the first ones to actually start sculpting the boards in the third dimension. In other words like "hulling" it or whatever you want to call it. Theirs had the D fin of corse. Quigg and Kivlin's were going more and more foiled. Yater saw there boards , and that is when he started doing it. From Yater that is where Greenough started doing it , and they got more and more foiled which is where McTavish got it. Where it all started blowing up. Back in the mid fifties. We are back in 1955.
a kook box has its wide point where, and how did it ..its wide point is forward. so how does that wide point shift aft?
that came from some place in the hot curl. ok and i don't know who it was in the hot curls that actually moved the mass back. the whole trip with the hot curls was , it was the first 3d board that didn't have a fin. bare in mind they had to have something that would hold into the water. they weren't pacific homes, they weren't kook box...they weren't Simmon's. Simmon's were virtually kook boxes with a hulled front end. Simmons was playing wiith the bottom, and he was working with the balsa instead of the hollow wood system. Quigg was doing 8'2" to 8'8" in 55 to 56. they were 16" nose 21.5" width 16.5" tail. They were the baby squash. D fins. The wide point was in the middle. The template is curved at the half point. Kivlin got out of pigs and got into making those Malibu races that had the wide point forward again. But Quigg didn't he had the other stuff going on. Hobie Alter's foam blank came from the general design of Velzy's boards back then. Hobie was the first guy to start blowing foam. He got so wrapped up with orders he gave the foam orders to Grubby Clark.
How is that name "Grubby?"
Hobie for some reason made them longer. He went up into the 9's and that is when all of a sudden all the long boards went up into the 9's. But the guys that were doing these first pigs they were all like 8'6" . The movie Gidget has the malibu chips and the Quigg's being ridden, and all the Hobies are up against the wall. They all have opaque resin because the foam was so bad. They are usually white with blue stripes. You see both boards in the same movie. You see the wood and you see the pop out foam. The gidget double is riding a Quigg balsa I believe. Joe Quigg was riding an 8'4" or an 8'8" I believe. To tell you the truth...this is just pure speculation on my part...these boards had a certain amount of mass since they were made out of blasa. Hobie might have gone a bit longer since he was using foam. Try to preserve the mass to keep the glide since foam was so much lighter.
So that is where your pig shape kind of came about. Now as far as what mad them even piggy-er...Gnoll might have had something to do with it, or Velzy might have. When they got longer Velzy might have made them piggy-er. To get like more of the turn.
further words from brian:
We don't know if that fin is what made this board come into my hands, thirty years ago, after a previous twenty in some garage rafters- in other words, that this sled is a discard dog.But I will say this, known since my last emails: I measured this sled, and the rocker is more generous (so, in my opinion, better) than other contemporaries (1959-1961) that I've checked out. This guy is a whopping 3.8" thick, but the thickness distribution coincides with my pig-outlook very well, as does the side-to-side contour. By the way, outline dimes are 16 3/8 x 22 3/8 x 16 3/8s; sounds like straight 1/2" dimensions, but shaped in a hurry. Fin a whoppin' 11" high by 12" long.