east side sliders!

Eric Dranginis sent me this via surfapig@live.com: A couple days ago, the day after overhead bombs. Our east side version of sliders point!

NICE!!

maiden voyage on the bing feral pig!!!!!

i slipped out after work this avo and slid a quick 10 (miniature) waves on my bing feral pig. slid is the right word in this case. this board seems frictionless. i am so stoked on how this board feels so free in the water, yet is stable to walk on. it feels as if my other boards have been dragging kelp. i always thought if a board was stable to walk toward the nose on, it wasn't easily maneuvered. well, that doesn't seem to be the case. matt has such a great understanding of fin to tail width ratio. this board feels AMAZING in the water.

sure... it was only a quick session in thigh high pier dumpers...but i felt this thing! to say i am excited about pushing it through all conditions is like saying there is water in the ocean. i want to sleep with this board...in the ocean.
my wife shot these quick little waves on her phone while she was holding our one year old daughter. it was the first time my daughter saw me surf. she didn't really know what she was looking at! after the sesh, we had a nice meal on the pier. that is how its DONE!

surfing with friends on the swell of the....

surfed with my buddy jason and my other buddy cheyne today. its a funny thing...surfing is surfing... i mean, the beginning, middle and end of it is ...you, the wave and what ever you ride. sometimes surfing by yourself is just what the doctor ordered, other times surfing with some buddies and 3000 kooks chasing the (hyped) swell of the millennia is what the doctor ordered. today was the later. fun day, stoked to be around friends!

not at sliders

june gloom, not at sliders.

fuzzy video. like i was shooting in the fog. however, there is a (not so fuzzy) little clip of my buddy donnie brink riding his 9'8" hot curl he shaped. super cool!

friends!

gene and i surfed some little ones today.
its always nice to surf with friends!

yey-ah!

where am i?

today was unusual. i surfed somewhere other than sliders! it was different!

big al picked up a blackboard flex pig from gene this morning.
how is that right peeling in the lower right hand corner of this photo?!
me shooting gene shoot al.
me shooting gene shoot al...again.
gene and al made a board swap. ....board swap!
more surf!

weezel shot this of Big Al on his new Blackboard Fex!!!