ye ole sliders point. i love this wave!!!! shared some of these waves with my good buddy chris T. cheers mate for meeting up here this morning for yawn patrol! i scored one of these PERFECT lefts today. SO STOKED!! sometimes the best christmas presents are ones that aren't bought!!! ...just made. yeah. i met a guy named paul on the beach. he had his camera and got this one of me today before he split. thanks paul. i guess you could say i never got the memo that says "D fins don't turn". BLAST IT!!!!
my buddy sends me the text below, when i responded "how did he know me?" i was half wondering if the response was going to be "you crashed his party and made an ass out of yourself." instead i received... my same buddy was chumming it up with wingnut. turns out wingnut approves ofJazz the Glass! classic. my wife kissed wingnut (long before we were married) on his birthday in costa rica about 12 years ago. she is the voice of flossy in Jazz the glass. I was thinking how funny it would be if wingnut heard that 6 degrees of separation tale!!
had a great day today. tutored in the morning, cleared the "honey do" list in the late morning, caught a MAGNIFICENT "in-between shift" sesh at sliders. so many people were walking up as i was walking down. ...yeah! today was a day that reminds you how important every decision you make is.
worlds best surfers. this next sequence had to be posted.
a clean one , screaming "pig city!!" yeah, i was ready to own that shit. i'm digging the sky. a bit inconsistent, and at times the peaks were scattered. my buddy texted me this photo. i don't know who made this installment, but got dam is it NUTZ!!!