Wednesday, November 27, 2013

look at that!

thank you surfline. some of the best "1-2 foot poor" i've ever surfed.
oh, i see... i'm about to have the SICKEST session EVER.
there is me right.
caught a few lefts today too.
the standard grab of rights.
nice conditions. warmish water, crystal clear water, nipply air. peaceful walk down.
come on?!!!
hello mr. sea gull.
nice day.
although i only surfed an eightieth as many lefts as rights, the lefts i scored were SWEET!
bye, bye...and thank you.

Tuesday, November 26, 2013

XXXXXX pign'

andie sent me this via  this is a sand point break on XXXXX XXXXXX XXXXXXX. I have never surfed it and the people down there never talk about it. It can get epic but XXXXXX has very inconsistent waves, very wide and shallow continental shelf.

Here is my new board, shaped here on the east coast by Bill Frierson. I told him I wanted a semi-pig and it came out very nice. The hips are pulled back a bit and a slight pulled in nose, no nose concave with a slight rolled bottom and easy rail line. Old school comp stripe and detailed tail block. keep turning,Andie


Greg Pearson , THANK YOU!!

greg was out west the other day. stoked to connect with him, we shared a few waves.. he shot a few shots!!

Monday, November 25, 2013

quick trip down south to get educated.

 i was hoping to get matt and jim's opinion regarding this board.

 stoked to live around these guys!

Saturday, November 16, 2013

al norte, to the middle max.

good morning not sliders.
thank you for the time.

not perfect... but... who's measuring?

this here is me boy greg. a fine gent.  pleasure to spend time with you sir.
johnny meet greg, greg meet johnny.
van life.


Saturday, November 9, 2013

recent what nots!