Thursday, September 30, 2010


today was a day not to be missed. late summer early fall is what southern california is ALL ABOUT! FEEEE-YYYYUUUUCK! i am SO STOKED i didn't have to work today. never mind the fact i have a beautiful healthy daughter, a beautiful understanding healthy wife, a loving family, insane surfboards, a creative career I am passionate about....but ALL DAYS....i wanted it, i NEEDED it...but i feel as if i don't deserve it. WTF!
the sky these past 2 days around my neck of the woods has been EPIC. straight opal-essence.
i was stoked to see so few cars in the parking lot this morning. i walked down the trail thinking it was going to be a rad sesh. the weather was beautiful, and the birds were chirping, bunnies were hopping. i walked under the tracks and labored through the soft sand. was then that things seemed off. i walked up to see and empty beach and an empty line up. it was 7:45 or so.
a set rolled through and i began to run.
as i was almost ripping my wetsuit that i shouldn't have been wearing ( the water must be 68)...i was convinced i was dreaming.
the sky shot with my phone.
i surfed for near 3 hours. i don 't know how life has taken me here...but i'll accept it and cherish it. my cooperfish blackboard flex is consistently BLOWING my mind. I had a handful of barrels. just about every wave gave me an opportunity to refine or re-learn learn how to ABSOLUTELY BURRY the rail and swing off the bottom. there were some wonderful nose rides through critical sections....the high density foam sits deep, allowing for controlled, trusted late take offs.
i do not believe the video below was actually shot by me. i think it was a dream.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

punch fight fuck

Sunday, September 26, 2010


sliders was fun today. it was "one of those days". i love surfing with friends, i love surfing this wave on my surfboard. head dips, and cut backs were the deal. NICE!

surf a pig , by david jaraiz

i google image searched "surfapig" and found this. i guess this illustrator named david jaraiz drew this thing. i am honored by it, his work is STUNNING!

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

cheyne skasic's terry martin chip.

cheyne sent me this: Hey Mike after regretting throwin the fin that I did on the malibu chip I had Jeff Beck from Ninelights surfboards hand foil a new bigger more fitting fin for my Terry Martin 1958 chip. He did a impeccable job. Fin looks like it was on the board from the get go and looks beautiful. Took the board out this morning and there is a noticable differerence in the feel....really livened the board up. Think I'll have this board till I die....also side note if you surf pigs why not have um tattooed on your feet haha I get all my work done up at Idle Hands in San fran by Cris Clean. He worked up these two numbers for my feets. Based off a old Maritime tradition that said if you had a Rooster on your left foot and pig on your right it was good luck for not drowning due to the animals being the only ones to survive ship wrecks due to them floatin ashore in wooden crates...thought you'd might enjoycheers keep up the awsome site


justin swartz is good people.

New York in the Fall.

jesse watson's made a 9'6" semi pig/velzy style outline!

jesse sent me this via thought you might like to see some shots of a new log i did, its a 9'6 semi pig/velzy style outline, its 3 1/8" but super bladey in the rails. full rolled bottom no concaves. glass on 11 1/2" rudder fin i'd like to have this one in my quiver, but its not gonna happen

cheers jesse! thanks for the contribution!

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Zephaniah Carrigg made Scott a pigpin.

ryan gave me the heads up that Zeph made scott from foam fins and fiberglass a pigpin. here it is:spent 1/2 a day with Zeph Carrigg and Ian Zamora the their factory today. both gents are true craftsmen. stoked. Zeph had this nice 9'2 "PIGPIN" for Scott at Foam Fins & Fiberglass almost ready to ride. wide point 5" back. looking very sweet!

Sunday, September 19, 2010

i love my surfboard.

the surf was great yesterday and today. i had strangers paddling up to me saying i "ripped". two different people. made me feel weird. i enjoyed the surf today and yesterday. i trusted my surfboard today and it payed off. these cooperfish blackboard flex's are the way and the light. period. i got home from surfing, tutored, did chores, hung with the fam, now i am bar-b-q-ing listening to "nobody" from Johnny cash. getting ready to feed the missus. NICE!

Saturday, September 18, 2010

talk like a pirate on grog!

in celebration of international talk like a pirate day:

al norte!

well today i got radical. ...but first and explanation concerning the photo below. look ma! i'm an artist! i shot this photo with my phone. i didn't use a light meter, and i didn't use an old shitty analog camera. i just pointed my phone at something that looked beautiful and pushed a button. and looks like washed out over exposed lo-fi! how ARTISTIC!!!
i got radical today by finding my way to a different break. i knew they existed.
how mysterious!
i have a client that lives a stones throw from this break. this is the break that is on the very north end of sliders point. where i am usually surfing the south end of the cobble stone collection...this is what is happening on the north end.
i only went left today. i was thinking of my good buddy Gene Cooper. I wished we had surfed together today. it was a good day. plenty of power.
it was nice to feel my board in waves of consequence, and backside to boot!

grant newby's pig for luke

grant newby is up to again! check out this sled and and the ride report! Hi Mike,just picked up this latest board I built , thought you may like it. Old school PIG with a modern twist for a young guy. Long nose concave to quite rolled out through the tail. Old school D fin. 9ft 6" x 23 3/4" x 3 with a wet rub matt finish. Just heard from Luke that he was hanging 10 on his first wave at the Pass Byron Bay today and was stoked with the whole package.

jonas matz and a stuffed pig!!!

jonas sent me this via Mike- Heres a few shots of my Con- sure it would qualify as a pig. Almost stuffed the nose on the first shot TWrying to get the year on this one- found it in a rafter in Burbank- got it for 100.00 back in 96. Been riding it lately, more fun than most.

you have to LOVE the beaters you picked up 14 years ago for $100! NICE!!!

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

ricky of devotion style sent me this BEAUTY!!!!!

ricky of devotion style sent me this. FEEE-YUUCK! not only does the template and rocker have me interested in trying this thing...look at the detailing. NICE!!! Dear Surfapig,i would like to show my new pig shaped by OLA Surfboards from Tuscany, Italy.Measure are: 9'5" , N15"1/4, W 21"1/2, T15"3/4, 3". Custom stinger,Variegated goldleaf wings on the nose. Super straight scoop. hope you like,ciao,Ricky.

thank you ricky!...and uh...yeah i like it!