i can't believe this is the spot i surf when i surf. well...i can actually, since this is where i surf. I mean this is how the wave breaks. what i can't believe... is that its real. just looking at this shot of Richard's makes me feel a certain way. ever since i moved out of santa barbara county i have felt like some part of my surfing soul is missing. not so anymore.
so lucky
ReplyDeleteIt's like you mined all the stoke out of this once-magical place and transplanted it. You sure have my Richard's in a vice, and this picture makes it seem as if you're suspending me from them by the ceiling: it's just not fair!
ReplyDeleteyep!!
ReplyDelete