Saturday, October 2, 2010

seriously?

i am not going to wax all philosophical right now. i am just going to drop logic: fuck summer, love fall.
this morning was a repeat of thursday. i don't understand it. there was this current that was pulling the few people that were there today up north. sliders corner was empty. it was a quite day all over the point...but the corner was a ghost town...and it was THE place to be.
nose rides, curl shoots, a few barrels, cut backs...speed trims...FEE-YYYUUUCK!!!!
after 3 hours... i figured i better go and check on the family. there was this 45 minute to an hour time period between 9:15 to 10-ish that was this magical conveyor belt. this conveyor belt has only happened one other time in my life...well to this degree anyway. i wouldn't sit for more than 2 or 3 minutes before i was sliding across another glassy wall. it was a session where i could relax and think about subtle adjustments that refine surfing. it was strange going in.
the photos above are frame grabs from the video below.

2 comments:

  1. love this post. conveyor belt sessions are incredible for the soul

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  2. cheers jake!

    the only other time in life i had a conveyor belt like this one , was back in '92 at this spot south of langosta near tamirindo. you walk across the river on low tide, go down the beach a good stretch. there is this pile of rocks, we named the spot "cave town". that spot gave me the conveyor belt one morning. it was surreal. there was no one there to share it with. no man made item with in sight. i was surfing a thruster ...doing anything on that board my mind could imagine. eventually i went in and just laid on the beach. i had been surfing for about 3 hours. a couple buddies finally showed up and wondered why i wasn't surfing the PERFECT surf that was going on. i tried to explain what they had missed.

    i was just shocked this recent one happened here at sliders.

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