sliders point.

super nice!!!

little bird

i'd like to be sliding that little slider behind that little bird there at sliders point!

surfing with friends when it's good is fun

jon steele shot these photos of my buddy dan and I.

tomorrow is my birthday!

i always call my mom and thank her on my birthday. it is as much of a day for her as it is for me. it's been a busy and beautiful week around here. hope you are getting some!

i am getting organized over here, I am about to announce more details concerning a pig get together ( down here in south OC) scheduled for some time in late june. A lua? A pig roast? A big pile of pig boards at the beach for all to check out and compare...what?

1/9/11

today was better than yesterday. both days were inconsistent...but today was less crowded. i finally got my legs back. nose rides and head dips were ON!

1/8/11

i surfed today. i NEEDED it! the sand bar is SSSSIIIIICCCCKKKK!!!!!!

you have to love a river mouth's sand bar.
the waves were PERFECT for the pig!!! you could just pull off the bottom and line up for a SWEET curl shoot! SUPER NICE!!!

12-11-10

i surfed yesterday. it was a beautiful morning. one of those pig perfect days. there are so many birds lurking about at sliders. i suspect that means something...i'm just not sure what.

i recently wrote a children's book. It is almost done being self published. it is about a spider. now my eye is has no choice but to be absorbed into every spider web i see. with the one below...the light hit it just right on my way down the trail. i took this photo with my phone's camera. i then enhanced the color using "preview: adjust color" . i can't help but marvel at people that are all about "lo - fi"stuff. Every lo-fi image I see is presented through pixels. Hence it has been pushed through a digital media. so to announce the "texture" or the "mood" of "lo - fi" as being what makes it so distinct is asinine. people that are all about old cameras and "film" .... good for you. I am stoked to see people keeping things out of landfills....artist pursuing their passions....even better. i guess my point is...today...in reality...there is no lo - fi. i mean lets capture the mood of a moment in time on film. and then make a print of it (nice!)...then photograph the print using your digital camera to put it on your blog? ...what?
birds, a nice peak. I paddled out at my usual corner. it was pretty dead. I slid a few though. i had my new wetsuit on. it feels great (thanks ICONS!). i am blessed to have the board i do, and surf the spot i do. i paddled north and met up with my buddy troy. i caught a few more up there.
a great way to start the morning.
yeah andrew!!!

surfing with a buddy

my buddy dan was visiting. sliders offered up nice conditions...albeit small. i shot these photos yesterday. My buddy richard holcombe was shooting friday morning. He said he got some of Dan and I. we'll see!

no complaints here.
litttle left.
A frame.

the pig was just right!

this morning was beautiful at sliders. you wanted the bay waves. they would build as they broke, where as ..not the bay usually just had a peak and not much else.

a quick pre paddle out shot of an A-frame.
surfboard.
birds, waves.
surfboard, wave. the wind went from off shore to glass, to "ball bearing texture" to slight on shore.
pelicans.
i was so stoked today. it was a perfect day for this board. i am amazed at the turning ability of this board, and how well it nose rides my fat ass.
pelicans.
surfboard, wave.
sea-glass!

102310

this has been an unusual october. the rain has warshed a rut in the trail.

when i got to the beach, i nearly didn't paddle out. it was chunky. then i thought about the fact that i am at the beach , with a surfboard, i have my health, and there are ridable waves breaking. it was pure logic at that point.
a bird!
i was stoked i paddled out. i sat to far north at first. my buddy phil of sliders was getting all the good ones. eventually i found my way to the spot.
look ma! i'm an artist!!! this is a shot taken with my cell phone, like all the others on this post. except for this one i used photo shop to give it a photo-shop pseudo analog lo-fi look. you know, its important to keep up with the trends!
i have a shit ton of photos of my fin. Gene is a smart mother fucker. putting the cooperfish logo on my fin has his brand in all the shots i tend to gravitate toward.
another bird!
it went through periods of glassy conditions today. there was a stretch where i had some incredible waves. i am SO grateful for the board i have.
classic sliders point. a short boarder missed the section, a nice one out the back.
i was stoked on a few rights today!
that is my buddy troy taking off on a BOMB! he scored this wave all the way into the bay.
the wave after troy's
how i reproduced such a beautiful daughter is beyond my understanding.
the estuary.