there is a lesson in here somewhere....
did i think this waves was going to "get in front of me" or "close out" when i paddled for it? sort of. i mean i had my suspicions. i paddled for this bomb. it was a wave that the potato chip but wiggling thruster kids couldn't get to in time. a wide swinger. had i not gone, no one would have. i saw it start to go in front of me. should i have pulled in? it was a tight , narrow tube. what you don't see is the left coming at me. should i just have said "who cares? i'm going to get in this one?" i don't know...i do know what i choose...i choose to stand tall, and feel it for what it was giving me at that time. i held onto that moment for the time i could. i think there are moments in life like this. there are choices... you make one in a split second, and hold onto it for the time you can.p.s. thanks miles cooper for the sequence!!!!
