Lance Carson recently told me that. Sounder advice has never been told. Yesterday I had an un-real session. Today was even better. The waves had the flutters. You know when you are gliding across that off shore texture. I walk my board down and up the trail. I try not to accesorize my life. Plus if I rode a bike I probably wouldn't see the dragon flies eating the mosquitos or hear the crane doing its majestic sounding call. There is something about good conditions that just make the day seem good. good = good. good. Warm water, clear water, light crowd, off shore winds, perfect waves for pig sliding. Humh? GOOD.I think some one forgot to tell the waves its not that good on low tide.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
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Unreal. And that's some sage advice from one of the best surfers of our time.
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