well today i got radical. ...but first and explanation concerning the photo below. look ma! i'm an artist! i shot this photo with my phone. i didn't use a light meter, and i didn't use an old shitty analog camera. i just pointed my phone at something that looked beautiful and pushed a button. and viola..it looks like washed out over exposed lo-fi! how ARTISTIC!!!
i got radical today by finding my way to a different break. i knew they existed.
how mysterious!
i have a client that lives a stones throw from this break. this is the break that is on the very north end of sliders point. where i am usually surfing the south end of the cobble stone collection...this is what is happening on the north end.
i only went left today. i was thinking of my good buddy Gene Cooper. I wished we had surfed together today. it was a good day. plenty of power.
pig?
it was nice to feel my board in waves of consequence, and backside to boot!
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