the surf was great yesterday and today. i had strangers paddling up to me saying i "ripped". two different people. made me feel weird. i enjoyed the surf today and yesterday. i trusted my surfboard today and it payed off. these cooperfish blackboard flex's are the way and the light. period. i got home from surfing, tutored, did chores, hung with the fam, now i am bar-b-q-ing listening to "nobody" from Johnny cash. getting ready to feed the missus. NICE!
Sunday, September 19, 2010
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