well, i should just get this off my chest. i really like to surf long clean well shaped waves.mollusk surf shop is my friend. i love my friends chad and johnny. johnny was in class, chad was there. thanks for telling me to grab my board and pose for a photo chad! it felt corny at the time...but venturing out of your comfort zone now and again can be real exciting!!!
here you go!
there were fun waves. i had such a ball today.
the insiders were so clean.
it felt great to spend long periods of time on the nose, to just sit in the pocket...and to lay my board down on the rail.
well...there you have it...skewed horizons and all!!!