i went surfing with my friend tim today. our buddy steve picked up, surfed , then gave to us this bob simmons replica that John Cherry and Terry Martin made. the documentation of the session is below.
the board is not a pig.
the board carries momentum. The board surfs higher in the water than a pig does.
there is a lot of shape in the board.
the other day , i noticed how awfully un-attractive I am.
I kept forgetting I wasn't on a pig.
she would really get going. i tended to want to be too far forward on the board. she was fastest quite far behind center.
mind blown.
i didn't forget about the pig.
our buddy matt laying his board on a rail!
I get some great video of the simmons replica in action. the board hauls ass. it has a control...or a feel more akin to an ala(i/y)a than a pig. what an honor to get a go at this board. what an experience! so stoked to know the people ...and surf the wave... i do! check the video!
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