surfing.

i woke my wife up this morning. she hadn't slept all night. when i woke her up , she had only been asleep 1 hour. i almost had my head ripped off. so after doing a couple hours of chores, i meandered my way down to the point. when i walked up , i saw some nice sets coming through with dolphins jumping out of the water. a good sign. i get out there, and my body feels slow. i couple of nice steep wide swingers come straight to me... i hesitate. i am not trusting myself or my board. my mind isn't into the session yet. i start over thinking everything. then i just stop thinking. next thing i realize...i am understanding my cutbacks, and riding the curl on the nose of my board. oh! the value of nothing.

check the video!