Thursday, August 12, 2010

Mark Hoyle's piggy for restoration!

mark sent me this via surfapig@live.com:Hi there, this is my Pig, we are currently restoring it and will keep you posted. It is about 9'6" and is about 3.25" thick.The glassing was too lifted and sun damaged so we have stripped it and replaced the stringer with a new one. We have added new foam to the nose and tail areas to replace rotten old foam. I am hoping to have the project finished before October, my mates is doing it in between new board orders and repairs. Regards.Mark Hoyle Kommetjie ,South Africa. The home of the best surf in a single coastal town, outside Hawaii(We even have a Sunset with world class big wave surf.)
check this board's mid century get up!
what ambition!
nice!

i will be updating this link as it comes together! these 2 pix are the latest development. stay tuned... i think this is going to turn out unreal!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Violet Black

8.5 lbs , 18.5 inches, 4:52 pm, 8/11/10, beautiful, healthy


yea.

p.s. Mickey Dora was born on this day back in 1934.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Violet fin for cooperfish blackboard flex pig.

today has been WILD!!! so i am chilling out rummaging around the ether...and I find this. NICE!!! gene is gearing up for sacred craft. check more of his get up here!
NICE!!

Saturday, August 7, 2010

breast feeding.

well, today is Saturday. my wife is ready to give birth to Violet Black. Violet is due Monday 8/9/10. My mom flies in today to give us back up. NICE!!! fatherhood couldn't come at a better time in life. In lieu of shark week, sliders point's recent shark sightings, and all the breast feeding in my wife's future... i came up with this design. too perfect!

Friday, August 6, 2010

surfing.

i woke my wife up this morning. she hadn't slept all night. when i woke her up , she had only been asleep 1 hour. i almost had my head ripped off. so after doing a couple hours of chores, i meandered my way down to the point. when i walked up , i saw some nice sets coming through with dolphins jumping out of the water. a good sign. i get out there, and my body feels slow. i couple of nice steep wide swingers come straight to me... i hesitate. i am not trusting myself or my board. my mind isn't into the session yet. i start over thinking everything. then i just stop thinking. next thing i realize...i am understanding my cutbacks, and riding the curl on the nose of my board. oh! the value of nothing.
check the video!

Thursday, August 5, 2010

sliders this morning with kris, kameron, and reese!

sliders was fun this morning. kris and I surfed together. then kameron and reese showed up. those dudes shred. how is this shot of kris paddling out just before me? i was SO stoked this morning.
check the video!


Wednesday, August 4, 2010

surf a pig, surf a simmons!

i went surfing with my friend tim today. our buddy steve picked up, surfed , then gave to us this bob simmons replica that John Cherry and Terry Martin made. the documentation of the session is below.
the board is not a pig.
the board carries momentum. The board surfs higher in the water than a pig does.
there is a lot of shape in the board.
the other day , i noticed how awfully un-attractive I am.
I kept forgetting I wasn't on a pig.
she would really get going. i tended to want to be too far forward on the board. she was fastest quite far behind center.
mind blown.
i didn't forget about the pig.
our buddy matt laying his board on a rail!
I get some great video of the simmons replica in action. the board hauls ass. it has a control...or a feel more akin to an ala(i/y)a than a pig. what an honor to get a go at this board. what an experience! so stoked to know the people ...and surf the wave... i do! check the video!