Today as I walked down the trail I must have looked like Billy Bob Thornton in slingblade. I was smiling and lost in thought as I anticipated my first new shred session. 
I have been out of town for the past 2 weeks. I have been mentally surfing this board that entire time. My first session today was like a theoretical math problem. I was so psyched to surf the board I forgot my wet suit. I would have been arrested for sure had I not had a pair of trunks with me. My guess is the boys at trestles wouldn’t take kindly to a naked pig rider sharing their waves. My first wave felt super awkward. I am used to surfing a pig. I thought I kind of knew how this board was going to go. Perhaps it was my time out of the water, or perhaps it was the design of the board. Whatever the case, it felt like the board was pushing water. My second wave wasn’t much better. I still couldn’t find the sweet spot and I corked the rail so bad I had to swim! By now I was getting up in my head. I just sat around looking at all the bobbers that wish they had the courage to ride the proper board for the day. On my 3rd wave something clicked. Finally in the following waves I felt all the nuances that contribute to that glide that makes the pig the functional surf craft it is. I think the key to my breakthrough was kicking back and listening to the board instead of trying to push my expectations on it. This board RULES!! I am so psyched!
Hopefully I'll get some shots of this board in action before too long!!
beautiful!
ReplyDeletei know you're digging the blackboard now a days. i've meerly played around on pigs in the past but, have now decided to get on the porkchop express and order my first pig. and have been in contact with the fine folks at bing/jacobs, thinking that they'll be who i ordrer from. i was wondering. how'd you like your bing? was there anything lacking with it being a replica? i haven't ordered a board in quite some time. had a few expirements of my own in shaping. i have a few boards that i really love, but haven't locked into this expirience that i'm looking for. i'm making a move from CT to WA and will have a few months before i go out to sea. what to get a board that i can explore with and ride in most conditions. looking for an opinion to help me decide on which log. i'm really leaning towards the bing.
ReplyDeletei have an answer to this, you still around?
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