today was one of those days....thanks be to what ever it was...cuz i got mines. FFEE---YYYUUUCCK! it was SSIIICCKK! i happened upon perfect conditions for my cooperfish blackboard down at sliders point. i got a beautiful barrel today. dry. i seen the green of the barrel out of my left eye way out in front of my left shoulder. cylindrical. super dry. it is unusual for me to get that far back and be dry the entire time. i kept my head up . barely squatted my stance. it was a situation where i went to the bottom and thought i was about to lay a solid bottom turn and then stall turn off he top. ...but when i set my bottom turn up...i seen the inside section look lustful and glorious. hence my decision to get off the inside rail and back on to the outside rail. i stood up straight and stalled off the bottom..i just came to a stand still and had this cylinder wraped itself around me as i was standing still. it was cosmic.
this alien caterpillar squiggled up to me and said "hello mr mike". i asked him if he saw my barrel and he said i was stupid for asking him that.
we have a show next weekend in Ventura. very FANCY!
i'm all into violet now.
here is a little video i put together of this morning's session.
gnar gnar tuber sickness. frickin cali gettin better waves than hawai'i today. bastards.
ReplyDelete