Wednesday, June 2, 2010

chrysalis

today was my maiden voyage on my velzy jacobs. i was so excited when i hit the sand, i felt i should think about my breathing. when i got to the beach i snapped a picture and then suited up. there were these aqua lines of energy transitioning to nothingness that were screaming at me. "put your board on us!"
balance.
i snapped this picture just before i waxed her up. click on it enlarge it , and look at that peeler out the back.
i was literally laughing after EVERY one of my waves today. this board surfs itself. i am entering into a new understanding of interface between surfer, board and wave.
beautiful evening.
my first wave was a head dip. strangers were commenting on the "glide" of this board. i am shocked at this board's performance. i had so much adrenaline rushing through my veins when i was first paddling out, it felt like i had just narrowly missed having a catastrophic car accident or something...that feeling lasted my entire session. hence my lack of material in this post. it was a mental gymnasium. i still can't believe i have such a board, and the board is one of the most functional and intuitive surf craft I have ever had under my feet.

4 comments:

  1. thanks andrew!

    this board is FREAKING me out. I just can't believe a board made over 50 years ago functions like this one does.

    this board turns so swell, and has such an amazing glide.

    NUTS!

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  2. Totally cookoo nutso over that board. Looks like heaps of fun. Thanks for posting a vid of the thing moving through the water.

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  3. Cheers cg. That video does little to convey the glide, and the momentum. however you can see that the board does move around.I'm stoked you appreciate the content, cg. Thanks for the support!

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