Saturday, May 31, 2014

Ricky from Puerto Rico and I have been SCORING.

Ricky is rad. so stoked to meet up with new friends and SCORE. Ricky and I were sharing wave after wave. Like a conveyor belt this morning. we both surfed well today. Ricky had some knee paddle in super clean bottom turns, nose ride master,turn, set up, do it again.... on a board he made start to finish himself, on the island. i was up to my usual trip. bottom turn, stall, head dip, hair-wash curl shoot, cutback...repeat. so buttery out there today. warm water too. so GOOD. i had to run in and get some shots of Ricky. so stoked i did too. i was standing in the bay trying to get some shots , and the leopard sharks came and said "hi". i could have done with out that. yeah, yeah... i know.. i get it ... they don't bite. SO. the shit is freaky. period.

Friday, May 30, 2014

fun ones this morning before work!

i'll take me some may grey glassy sliders with 67 degree water. yes.

Friday, May 16, 2014

i surf here

eventually a surfer says that. i just did. yes.

may has been fun