Tuesday, August 31, 2010


so stoked the water is warming back up, and the traveling kooks are where they are supposed to be. it was just the kind of day i like out there today. easy and fun. super stoked on the way this board is treating me.

Monday, August 30, 2010

not what i normally post.

there are several things going for the video below, there are some things going against it . ultimately, i choose to post it because it is an amazingly well done piece of art. i saw this on first point malibu's blog. then i kept going back to it. the video below is one shot. let me say that again, one shot. no editing. from a film maker's view...this thing has me thinking.

Sunday, August 29, 2010


i rummaged today. here are some shots i have snapped with my phone over the years.
the one below always gets me psyched. that is sliders on a low-ish tide, my (ex) jim phillips
my carson. i dig the reflection of the wave right over the serious part of the belly.
the shot below is a concept shot. how about a pig calendar with nothing but shots like this, maybe a pretty girl brining you a beer in the back ground?
another , just for good measure.

Friday, August 27, 2010

greg pearson, and the stoke mine.

greg pearson is a stoke miner, and a stoke provider. a wax comb in of itself is some what nominal, perhaps trivial... even a wax comb made from recycled plastic. but, the facts are...you need a wax comb. how many times have you needed to strip the shity wax off your log and searched high and low for a comb? i have done it more times than i care to admit. just recently i used a broken fcs fin i found in the lagoon at sliders for my make shift comb. greg took it upon himself to send me a care package. NICE!!!! i have to say, i will be sharing the stoke to my buddies. nice work greg!

miles cooper

miles cooper is a buddy of mine. he lives in Texas. he sent me these pics today. i am so stoked to see a clip of texas surf now and again.
thank you miles, and thank you Larry Childers for the photos!


joan rivers is so old...she was on this show, looking like she does, talking about the stuff she was talking about.

Thursday, August 26, 2010


i have been trying to break my routine as of late. i do not see my routine as "bad"...but rather, i just want to know why my routine is what it is. i figure , force myself to do something different, and perhaps that will shed light on why i do what i do. take today for example. after checking the weather, and reflecting on tuesday's slider's crowd's attitude, i decided to give "not sliders" a go (i prefer the less hyped days). i get to the waves and quickly realize why i surf sliders....for the second time in a week. ( i am starting to see why my routine is my routine.... tried and true is tried and true). i drive a bit more and go into "shark city". i was surprised there wasn't a line to get into the chest to head high textured lumpy chunks. as i was in the parking lot i ran into 2 people i know. donald and ned. that was cool. donald and i went for a quick surf. that was cool. i am stoked to go out and surf marginal waves and still have a blast. i love this blackboard i am on.

platty giving us some mid length education!

platty sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Hi Mike. Here are some images and measurements of some boards from the transition period in regard to the Wayne Lynch inspired mid length pig.

Image 1.

Left to right.

Gordon Woods. 8’x 24 ½” N 19” T 18 ½” wide point 3” behind midpoint.

Gordon Woods. 7’6” x 22 ¼” N 18” T 15 ¼” wide point 5 ¼” fwd of midpoint.

Keyo Plastic Machine. 8’2” x 24 ¼” N 18 ½” T 18” wide point 4” behind midpoint.

Although the board in the middle has its wide point fwd, it is of the era and is an example of where shapes were heading.

Image 2

You can see that there is a hint of the pig in the two longer boards.

Image 3

This was part of an article McTavish wrote in the 70’s called “Pods for Primates.”


Image 4

The foils in these boards are similar to the V- bottoms they replaced. The Keyo and the longer Woods are almost identical. The shorter Woods has a flatter rocker.

Image 5 & 6

I thought I’d throw these photos in. As far as I can gather there was a fork in the road of sorts during this period of design, were one group went down the Pocket Rocket and Tracker path ( images 5 & 6 ) led by McTavish first shaping Trackers for Morey Pope in California in early 68, and then in Australia on his return.

The other path was perused by John Arnold and Wayne Lynch. Other manufactures also focused on the shapes featured. But by 69 even the Arnold / Lynch outline was becoming more like the Pocket Rocket but with a less pulled in tail. Then by 1970 it seems that the two groups came together again, going super short, all be it for a short period of time before being shocked into adding some length after Rolf Aurness won the world title in that year in Victoria, Australia surfing a 7’ plus round pintail.

Regards, platty.

thank you PLATTY!

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

say bye!

i am going to miss these rickety toxic old tracks. they had some dudes down by the out houses today telling everybody "were tearing them down boys!"
the waves were great today. the crowd could go and fuck itself. i got a few though. this board fits my surfing.

Monday, August 23, 2010

joe's pignar bread basket.

joe sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Here are a few decent pics of my Pignar Breadbasket in case you’re interested. I’m not a very good noserider, but last week in some nice steep ones in Cardiff I got what was definitely my best backside noseride ever on that little 16 ¼” nose…. I’m a real fan of Dano’s boards… it’s just magical for me…Cheers! Über Joe


can't beat it.

i can't believe where life has taken me. i don't know how i have dodged all the bullets i have. most of the time i feel like i don't deserve the privileged life i live. i'll take it...and i'll fight to keep it...but got damn! am i stoked! this new flex is definitely suited to my surfing style.
look ma! i'm an artist. the blurry foreground gives it that "texture" that is so trendy right now. i shot this with my phone. it has resin on the lens from when i took a call during the repair session for "esmeralda". speaking of which...give me my board back SMUKES!
pre session quick snap.
i thought i get radical and try to find my way to a different spot today. well i found it...and then i quickly realized why i surf sliders and not "not sliders".

Sunday, August 22, 2010

sliders framed.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

maiden voyage on the new flex!

this board has all the right curves in all the right places. it is the board i have been looking for. my first wave was a cover up. i forget how deep the board sits in the water...after i faded left i was much deeper in the pocket than i thought i would be. the board is trust worthy. NICE!

Friday, August 20, 2010

1982 dub

utopia surf factory.

david sent me this via surfapig@live.com: hey mike heres the other pig i was on about, different template and more thinned blade ish rails... plus a box to stop all the moaning about not being able to travel with a glass on fin, hope you like it, more again soon, david

i love the curve in the tail...i keep getting drawn to the nose. NICE!

Sacred Craft through Joe's eye.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

new blackboard!

a trip to santa ana on a hot day...VIOLA! a new sled. FEE-YUCK!!! what is going on? i don't even know what to think or do. i just got to make good decisions from here on out. HEARD DAT!!!


classic! i thought today was the 18th. this was my first session out since the birth of Violet. the water is COLD.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

pig on the farm.

this little piggy went "wee- wee -weeee" all the way home! here is your pig on a farm. bing copeland sent this to me via surfapig@live.com:Hi Mike,Here's a couple of shots of my friend "Dickens" Bing Pig. Shot on his farm.Bing


...temporal collections...

here is a second trailer from Ryan Thomas.
as I am sitting here in front of the computer...I am at a loss of words to type. rt is my friend. he saved my ass when i was looking for a fist to throw my face into, his creativity forces you to think. he inspires me. TRAILER #2: Temporal Collections... In the General Vicinity of Inner & Outer Space from R.T. on Vimeo.
the first trailer is below:

Friday, August 13, 2010

Thursday, August 12, 2010


a sneak peak.

cooperfish blackboard flex! Keven Givner and Chris Vail!

check the VIDEO! on gene's BLOG!

dave's french pig!

dave sent me this via surfapig@live.com:"heres a shot of my recently finised pig,made here in sunny mimizan in w france,currently working on another a little more bladed in the rails than this one,hope you like it,david"
what a rich color!
what a clean template!