this has been an unusual october. the rain has warshed a rut in the trail.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuioLXxG0U5y_qYIP9sVcq2dkAcqv32af5QdCadirSSS1P1pd7k16akQAg3AUAkbASD1-IyRrqHQDwI_3In0P7CnOy_IV2qRtoTotaRgftEMJLJaG4a2VlUFJ2pXv5RG8PrQjYcxgqL7_D/s400/1.jpg)
when i got to the beach, i nearly didn't paddle out. it was chunky. then i thought about the fact that i am at the beach , with a surfboard, i have my health, and there are ridable waves breaking. it was pure logic at that point.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYLFyyyJgnNk_x3LVBNZU2FFFNOozd9lRI-gV_iXncdyflx8nY76XN2CcHMpYhZkZ_zmBRYFQAArpjoQl9WZN2oHJ_-jPy6bGn9fy_yh-ommDVnc0n-IQi5s_jUbd692GdvailXuMGPEs/s400/2.jpg)
a bird!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWL4uws3lq16sPaI4JvBsGTMKvt7LKJW0TGf6ydIt4AiPfbtd8GcOzH-dqw2CwIECwgwejx3fpU2tA9VPBNy37J6FZb4tXtH0y6jfbP456zxhfJlcE2yXlf5mgfI0mF2O13SI9Cital4l/s400/3.jpg)
i was stoked i paddled out. i sat to far north at first. my buddy phil of sliders was getting all the good ones. eventually i found my way to the spot.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7EogffC47XjtFWWUDGACpbltGMgiY7qBewSbIVlRuzCJ1m9HiJOdDaNOEyYKZHvfBxboJvrVMgXhUKmJjuSb1UuTTQb2NbaI3JVpHIWwl4AOYN2R92ipyKbLXAXOSEJbyvZilLHU6tq6/s400/4.jpg)
look ma! i'm an artist!!! this is a shot taken with my cell phone, like all the others on this post. except for this one i used photo shop to give it a photo-shop pseudo analog lo-fi look. you know, its important to keep up with the trends!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimj9txkkWYdGdQF93KRqkIHEW7NRjU0aYK9qNxmu92ibfK2NKLoF_aIZjU7F8TFD3NXIjnRE7PtXX2DalWuoUMx2GwmC4GIxBetpe6vlyR6Bx9JEvgGPsE-QJkOsErZORv5ODE723_qubF/s400/5.jpg)
i have a shit ton of photos of my fin. Gene is a smart mother fucker. putting the cooperfish logo on my fin has his brand in all the shots i tend to gravitate toward.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-K_rXDxjDGGcvjNbaJ6Eje8etXOEypQaQWrJW-N1PsD4glLRbb0XEGtxKyy4inZNgLwTxZH3bIezxjx7C820WUHUzfkr2ayPb0YQrTofjiyw4bmvLuPK8b9slgYJAPKjFRURvJdp9XcE/s400/6.jpg)
another bird!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Tc5MUipqwJb4IGCsXH18zhob0cYB8DlSrgUwqvifNqeG9S3iW1aD0OK0d3eePHJ3Nk-x0dfiVJXVj7OOWej4XxPAgGxIVWtKU-y4aR7JhNHInzQHiNCVOCzXEitsoemlAJrWsA9TpmKI/s400/8.jpg)
it went through periods of glassy conditions today. there was a stretch where i had some incredible waves. i am SO grateful for the board i have.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmFC9738_urOEjtA1IvrNzM9h3GccOMLSPebkU1xsAlFASBbd6hD0DZTAAwGrYnFhoRASfsZQePHTsaZNLSd0DlpGX6H-bcYTRZYb5lUjpYfiJ_kDMNjwfS3DI6qDswLIqmZ0Xd-nIN8T4/s400/9.jpg)
classic sliders point. a short boarder missed the section, a nice one out the back.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8sIw_9v5MyzuxMvNay0SYjckAzl5t23P7sIhyphenhyphenbtC5M993gS3G5C5wgm5-Nzk9VMil87ZS0I9pvCt7WoUu4snAAWckN9MwEqizTrOPzA_15kO4u7ase1M6z04JKp53NqaAE2lnOIzuo_B/s400/10.jpg)
i was stoked on a few rights today!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYhMdqUGLVlljUlpmP0HSb5EPRFmpzA5JVwhpAlGwFxvgLBFz7e-ClH6YsfSzjO9XyoV0Wm3quu5dB-7A-WVbU0pQ33sHVoLb24NdT_xB5cbMEAun81jIcJtgjQxnC4MQCt-4rY1V3rH-q/s400/11.jpg)
that is my buddy troy taking off on a BOMB! he scored this wave all the way into the bay.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJMIa9mLkN5iJ3AC3Y-HKvz8uZfDtAifUZMO0Dmq2RyGPznhJ5p_klzfE2PWnjJBmPVoZpzKOhpxY_46kRaeWQt8TV17I-3d0-PMK1viH5tE7wAZ7x4qifIEayKCMgfkhT89hDSh4PfpF_/s400/12.jpg)
the wave after troy's
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how i reproduced such a beautiful daughter is beyond my understanding.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWue7fjeF6oPzuyLmCBjLAltqh5nJr7WxgeQ4ThLHczcBX9wbUdwAdJLd_q29jTXvEnd2tzbmPKKa6ty3Pb53a6sw-lgdEh1J_coUBZO1y0i007vY1-ZyViolMFG17ISJ9PyyWq9qlZhc/s400/14.jpg)
the estuary.