Friday, April 30, 2010

kobok. a true story.

check the trailer here: kobok

cooperfish blackboard!

check gene's blog for more info!

owl from marc andreini

lead better, pig, and stoke. NICE!!!

Thursday, April 29, 2010

slide magazine and SURF A PIG!!!

i have some photos that i will be posting up between now and late may/early june (that is when the 10 page article hits!!!) these photos and what not are what is left out of the slide article. I can't express how honored I was to get a chance to discuss board design and functionality to so many influential surfers and craftsmen. communication sure is easy with stuff like the internet , cell phones, and events like sacred craft. bing copeland made this "pig" logo from one of his BING logos and sent it to me a while back. bing sent me the other photos as well. surfing was different back when the two older photos were taken. the yellow velzy pig Bing is holding is the board he took to new zealand. he said it was an emotional experience to be around the board again. the bing book is a great buy. they approached surfing different back then.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

shuffling up stuff a wee bit.

cooperfish blackboard rice board

this board was the stand out at sacred craft this year. check out more info on it at Gene's Blog

sliders sequence from richard holcombe

cooperfish blackboard cutting back at sliders point.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

11-2 pig from Scott Raymond Henry (SRH) Solana Beach, CA

George Hatch sent me this via
"this board was shaped for 230+#s. look for it out at Swamis.
11-2 length, 16"nose; 24"wide @ C-8"; 17"tail, custom stringer by SRH Phil Edwards Reverse template fin, volan lamination w/deckpatch and tail patch, speedcoat finish (no polish) Bottom contours are belly entry to roll to a rolled vee w/ edge in the tail"

NICE! i hope to see this board out in the water some day.

Monday, April 26, 2010

i don't know.

Sunday, April 25, 2010

pig slide at SLIDERS!!!!!

the surf was very nice today. the texture of the water was just right. the size and shape proclaimed: "YE SHALL RIDE THE LOG!!!" and that i did. so did my buddy tim of sliders. i really love this wave.
i have this strange attraction for symmetry. the depth and fractal nature of this fence is EPIC. i had been thinking about how to get the pattern of the chain link fence in such a way as to honor the pattern. i got it with this one. you have to love phone cameras.
walking up and seeing this. how do you think your session is going to be?
talk about fundamental fractal.
obligatory A frame.
as randall rodstoker would say "so clean."
my board blurring by me this morning on the walk down. thanks be to tom of sliders for sliding my board down.
neat little flowers.
check this video. there were so many EPIC waves going by unridden today.
to say i had fun out there is a massive understatement. it was a day where you could relax and really drive your board through top turns a bottom turns. late stand up style off the bottom, like you were matt howard or something. i had a few INSANE curl shots. it was a day where it felt like all the waves were coming to me. i even went left a few times today. i got out of the water due to a feeling of guilt. i felt bad that i was ALWAYS in the right place. it was a great day.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

barry mcgee and the pig

well here is the deal. i have been working on an article for SLIDE magazine. this article is all about pig boards. (imagine that?!) early on when i was trying to wrap my head around the idea of "an article about pig boards" i called my buddy Thomas Campbell. he said I should talk to barry mcgee . I am glad I did. it was interesting to get his feed back on pig boards. in fact, the limited interaction i had with T-moe influenced this article tremendously. the feed back i received from barry succinct as it was... really epitomized the core of the attraction the boards represent to me. here are some shots from barry.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

me trying to explain why a pigs works so well.

a pig is a real nice surfboard because the" hydrodynamica" of it all . as you can see from the obvious , elegant scribble behind me..the coefficient of the water stuff is , like well its just right.

a few boards!

Arthur Curtis out of long beach sent me this one via
"This is a 10 foot pig made by Billy Lemire of Seal Beach Ca. Check out his site Arthur Curtis.

paul smith of glide surfboards out of ireland sent this to me via surfapig: "Hi mike

Heres another that just went out today 10’0 –22 – 3” People are really getting into pigs now!!"

I am stoked to have this site be a place where people submit their creations. its an honor. i hope that people are able to see more of what is out there this way. this site has impacted my understanding of what is going on out there. i still haven't quite figured out what the definition of a "pig" is. paul's creation is a beauty. the work on the deck is intricate to be certain. I would like to see this board shot from above or shot from the nose. I have never seen a 2 + 1 set up on a pig design. great contribution paul. keep them coming.