this is why i live in southern california.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaVswKifsnHs_19dXWSsf2Zyj2Wih6txikkNUKVcPwZe5aTo1-02ZJkflRT4x8bWIGFHZy7x1kKIuVQXfV__NUgaKX5a1Kfpm74s3ONGVmIv9JwyRj_HGMGgSP0OZXhPRKF3wHmT4-bC43/s400/1.jpg)
sliders point had great waves today.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLvca7wv_a2pFAw07eLRLRSGtxnk1UNt-TFKMLD5BCz3jmYeKq_TQnZNicVqZypNG7ulcfQqhRzIig7Q_DoVhYlfwQ06dGSqrKCFZ1jY0M7_3yFpaNiDLcREDmlsKir05Oq5ujfuBfQjkZ/s400/3.jpg)
i was stationed on this corner. i can't count the number of head dips, curl shoots, nose rides, and full rail cutbacks...not to mention the "lip fondle-ing do nothing but sit there parallel stance and have a little syphon spin around your chest"s that i had. man...i needed a day like today. it's days like this , that make me feel like ...if every human experienced this once or twice a year...we wouldn't have any wars.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZr2QBinyVVXIfzw8Vh2ybzZyS013f68q9jkbuKHvFsaFanQW2wsqecbpFrgb_ofIrPY2hMjKSaXyv6lKSeszv3B83mkdqZ6qdZAz6iwCBeVqDEqBf85ypiQ9Fz8n-_V__r9-JkKo3rs1/s400/4.jpg)
pelicans!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyOuu8kdoodQOjCCaXp1ohNdfBft1MNo1be6ZhqMVWU6xELZ1plDiEw7tuITYUtiC7Pe1meAmz6oFyYt9wR2gm-vskVtOY3NfzMAMbuRYm5SGNJ8ngwWobv98rMha_jIH8WZaaQQAuT0J/s400/5.jpg)
to have my health, and a healthy happy family is all i could ever ask for. i am blessed to have those. to have this be my local break...that shit is just SILLY!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10vEBJHv3mC7794m7SONpbeoF3To3g59OJm4w9EvYnYHtHUNZp_r5QTxqfMlmB-z_lqYT7GG28gC_gVhJXKfoI_2Ye0FnWEPPZw-Hr8CdgMxWjRpHvoToVMPtDzndlloLgfzXLSsIQLwz/s400/6.jpg)
sliders point!! where is everybody?!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGolbB19IYrHl3YzTqixSTEATU76J7NoLKmNLOUk_PXvKoszwFakg7rcOWCg8FJYTj23VMgGfn4j0EqZ5eKaH3awpoM8t0mXNbGapeBXaQwbD1EG_9I3QTLEz1fcblvmJGwcwnZhNOMxn/s400/7.jpg)
praise be to the sand bar!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha1y7aniUTOYk2WomzW9K_oeraZkbJ4y6gIuNvmmhvCHmnqRBdUjzaMDH5FMU46BkI0WrJHKvhGgjA90-AQDMynWPeEs_Mm1b0HA3qQKNHW-HzxMJDL-C0EFWArgjrFnF3Zfl5oKtqXjSq/s400/8.jpg)
a little insider sneaks through. these little guys were so crisp.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQV4Quj_MSf6IQoXSElNqJXSuDXNR943GTRz6MSiKaGgiRjL4J-IfXZ4WA2x8wXo5Ufb7Sr3VZXZcRppRlr-PUokI7FxVEUQNWU8Vll_flYuuohvVHojr40EjSTxFUW2uR3slUSinF1y3j/s400/9.jpg)
yeah.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNheL7YVG2lC8UbhMwMgav2mMiTBV9x2iDQzOUMEa28kpKbwHvPG8HTIY8BjSd9bhVtHTjAFXA9ba6IaoVGAopoh2r962UXqOIk-mBrTmtO6BzirTKrstWUBUlQunri8xaDPip3nW9myb7/s400/10.jpg)
uhh....yeah.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgG8_6f7-LfCJDSecAyHbHlxudavrq3UJVOBSV1imCG3sO0KvrnT0J1nLpnUwDQc38Bi3IPJEy2LoEeA0RC7g8CKJsgVWdlrAscmsoRPoNatwA1mbEPp8FLgy8NpSY-3G4gTWQg95xhVA8/s400/11.jpg)
2.5 hours of conveyor belt. i was flopping noodles around. it was a day where i felt like i learned more about my board. a day where you could relax. wide open faces. stalls, fade way out in the flats....crisp glassy walls of opportunity.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7m3A1CUrG6CWDWhOS1DTYYO19GfbMJ82Gjok4We2BPDR54NdWe4Qc-sr_B9_Tddo-0yqiLa7oDjAUzDLi97y3vylknToq1vVbQux7N0v9xIrqN7cspeWTLgUHI9gej0TaDst4IXR-BabJ/s400/12.jpg)
what the FUCK?!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpqYVfCVq5kd5Ev3tvff5YqfUFUZoIQo5A6iS8aKKM7xbnMw6Q1-Ram4M0keInFb62UeNdNARsLnXbBEjqmKesnVc1uqSSFkeehvEMQO_LVb-GLH8wgXdmQTVmX-WHL6-bjsay7bOzKNv2/s400/13.jpg)
need i say ...TITS!!! it was pig CITY!!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdys8KwQ2yVD56hE3vfg5_FeWCb6vXLdSIUAj9z8DWXSfmGQujhR2qkCFrDM8-Gky82LN93ao4BivY0-odudtxOn3iAGzVsa8aMDGy2TgeTWYwdA6CRHJAaFtBs3BiyLMRRmQAarYYlbd/s400/14.jpg)
so many perfect waves today!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3FO01emui65duszdfFxB-uuJmQ7thbaPsjBJeMIViDQBtV4K7dtf6CBnMCuYy6KPpfvCGCzkZrmZSDpPhVhVX9_7zRigWDhpCcZTmxbfQiPBdpFnXGjeFVy9STXPm0oiKSWaJEMXSCct/s400/15.jpg)
i like this shot of the bright glassy wall down the point.
oh my goodness… that makes me want to come surf there so bad!!
ReplyDeletethank you for sharing : )
stoked you are stoked!
ReplyDeletethose boys out there are always threatening to give me a whoopin'.
i just tell them "sticks and stones will break my bones but words will never hurt me!"
Treasure your stick!
ReplyDelete