surfing!

this is why i live in southern california.

sliders point had great waves today.
i was stationed on this corner. i can't count the number of head dips, curl shoots, nose rides, and full rail cutbacks...not to mention the "lip fondle-ing do nothing but sit there parallel stance and have a little syphon spin around your chest"s that i had. man...i needed a day like today. it's days like this , that make me feel like ...if every human experienced this once or twice a year...we wouldn't have any wars.
pelicans!
to have my health, and a healthy happy family is all i could ever ask for. i am blessed to have those. to have this be my local break...that shit is just SILLY!
sliders point!! where is everybody?!
praise be to the sand bar!
a little insider sneaks through. these little guys were so crisp.
yeah.
uhh....yeah.
2.5 hours of conveyor belt. i was flopping noodles around. it was a day where i felt like i learned more about my board. a day where you could relax. wide open faces. stalls, fade way out in the flats....crisp glassy walls of opportunity.
what the FUCK?!
need i say ...TITS!!! it was pig CITY!!
so many perfect waves today!
i like this shot of the bright glassy wall down the point.