Thursday, April 14, 2011

41411

this morning when i got to the beach, i almost turned around and walked back up. then this came in!
nice sunrise!
spring.
how is this?! it was a day of great surfing. cutbacks, curl shoots, cover ups, head dips , nose rides... SO STOKED!!
i know...i know...but i HAD to.
this caught my eye on the walk down this morning.
nice!!!

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

hodge podge! queen! auction! FINS!

i saw this on Ryan's blog and had to post it....
please visit this link and check out this auction. it is an effort to raise money to help Japan's earthquake releif.
gene getting itchy!measurable efforts!
check the video!

Monday, April 11, 2011

surf

scored some fun waves today! head dip, and clean trim city!
beautiful sunrise!
empty morning peak on the walk up!
clouds in the water.
flower out of sand.
click on the picture below, you can see the peak.
yellow flowers in the sand!
i surfed with my buddy big steve. he has the blog the big slide. he was shredding this 11' pavel. watching him ride that board... that board did not ride like i would have expected it to. steve shreds these big boards! check the video!

Sunday, April 10, 2011

not at sliders

today i surfed "not at sliders". it is a trip to surf somewhere other than where you surf. felt like i was on a different planet. at first i wasn't into the session, then i just kicked back and thought about how fortunate of a life i live. i had a few waves...then came in a spoke to my buddy bobby D.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

hodge podge! Tuesday style!!!

My buddy Takshi and Junko sent me the email below :
Dear friends,

The editors of surfing media and snowboarding media are organizing a relief net auction to raise money for victims of the recent earthquake and tsunami in Japan. All sales from this auction go directly to Japanese Red Cross Society. We are therefore collecting the items which will be listed on this site. We hope you will understand this and we would be grateful if you'd donate something to this charity auction.

*Plan : net auction. A bilingual website. Open to all. Participants from abroad are welcomed.
*Period: planning from April 10 to April 30
*Charity: all sales from this auction will be donated to Japanese Red Cross Society after May.

*Please send us the following items via e-mail by the end of March if you agree to this proposal.
1. photos of an item; whole image and details of an item
2. a photo of face of an auction's supporter who donates an item
3. message to the victims from the supporter

*Welcome items; surfboard, art, photograph and so on. Example: Something like rare items, high-value-added items, collector's items, boards with art and etc. Some professional surfer and professional snowboarder donated their memorial boards which were used when they won the contests.
We will let you know about the shipping of items later.

We are appealing to as many friends as possible to consider being supporters of this relief auction. Thank you for your time and attention.

We look forward to hearing from you.

Best wishes,

Takashi and Junko Tomita

I sent them the photo below. Mike Hynson, 1961
Jason Arnold sent me the photos below. toronado!
HA!!

Friday, April 1, 2011

this is how its done ...havin' fun!!!! SON!!!

4 1 11 yes.




thank you david sager for the shots!!!