i woke up today at 4:50. i rolled over and slept in. got up at 8:30, did about an hour and a half of chores. went and tutored for two hours, came home kissed the wife, blew a kiss to the sleeping baby, then went and surfed glassy surf.
while getting many nose rides, cut backs, curl shoots...and bottom turns
i couldn't help but think how different life is today than it was 1 year ago.
so stoked to be where i am.
i am not tired of empty right point surf.
cha!!!
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