another good day!

got to love it!

a good day!

i woke up today at 4:50. i rolled over and slept in. got up at 8:30, did about an hour and a half of chores. went and tutored for two hours, came home kissed the wife, blew a kiss to the sleeping baby, then went and surfed glassy surf.

while getting many nose rides, cut backs, curl shoots...and bottom turns

i couldn't help but think how different life is today than it was 1 year ago.

so stoked to be where i am.

i am not tired of empty right point surf.

cha!!!

pig in the pocket

my pig was having a blast on these waves. it was one of those days where you would have to try to not be placed perfectly in the pocket. well, i suppose that is the case. i wasn't trying to NOT be in the pocket, i wasn't trying to be in the pocket...i was just surfing...but, this day i was always in the pocket.

how its done.

the below photo is from the LIFE archives. i'm feeling the guy receiving the frothy warm after surf beverage. he looks either impatient or in pain. perhaps he has a crick in his neck (from sleeping in his car the night before) that he has been ignoring during his entire session. now, he is slightly jealous of the guy ( who has already received his beverage) sitting on the bumper... the guy receiving the frothy after surf beverage is probably thinking "fuck! friend...careful with the suds, hurry this up!...i do thank you for them though." the guy pouring the beverage is probably a scientist, or a dentist. either way, he understands he is at the beach, he values the beverage, and is trying to actually get the liquid part into the guys cup... not giving a shit about the suds, as they are spilling onto the sand. the day is hot. (notice the pooch seeking shade under ther car)

hopefully this is what the surf looked like in the morning prior to them paddling out.

not a pig

my good friend Donnie Brink is such an asset to our community. He made my other buddy Jeff the board below. I am not sure what to call it...i can state with confidence it is not a pig.

sometimes you can get an idea for what something is , by understanding what it isn't.

yater bacon

looks like barry mcgee is making a yater bacon sandwich. holy ham hock batman!!!

"thats alot a bacon!"
thinly cut pre-cooked! feeee-yuck! do i want to see this art show when it is finished. keep an eye out for rvca to announce more details.

surfing properly

mr. farrelly giving us a demonstration.