the pig was just right!

this morning was beautiful at sliders. you wanted the bay waves. they would build as they broke, where as ..not the bay usually just had a peak and not much else.

a quick pre paddle out shot of an A-frame.
surfboard.
birds, waves.
surfboard, wave. the wind went from off shore to glass, to "ball bearing texture" to slight on shore.
pelicans.
i was so stoked today. it was a perfect day for this board. i am amazed at the turning ability of this board, and how well it nose rides my fat ass.
pelicans.
surfboard, wave.
sea-glass!

set in stone.

i have good friends. they are friends, and they are good. seth made friends with the humans.

yeah.

as clean as it gets. G & S

james sent this to me via surfapig@live.com:I am so glad I have found your site. I have been trying to find some info about a board I just purchased and have had no real luck. I hope you can help. It is a G&S 9' 6" pig with no serial # and cant seem to find anything that resembles it on the net. I Also had no response from G&S. I hope these pics will help. Thanks, James

i said, bring it to sacred craft, or contact the surfing heritage foundation. other than that...i suspect it's about a '63. i don't know...i'm just a humble math teacher!

how clean is this board?!
NICE!! all i can say...is ...if this were my board i would be PSYCHED! and I would surf this thing exclusively for the foreseeable future. assuming of course the blackboard didn't exist.
anyone with information on who shaped this and when/where it was shaped...please email me at surfapig@live.com

mushroom+ape

late 50's 8'11" VELZY!

logan sent me this via surfapig@live.com:the other day i was surfing just north of cardiff and i was talking to this guy about your blog and he told me to send you some pix so here you go this is from what i can tell a 1959 velzy pig. i found it up in san fran. in june its my daily driver now i love it it rocks!! so any ways i hope you like it. logan calkins

con at the swap meet!

alex sent me this via surfapig@live.com: Hi, I thought this would be a nice addition to the blog. A couple of my friends and I found this 60's something Con at a HB board swap for $60 earlier this year... It rides in surf up to overhead high. The glide is unreal....-Alex tenpiggiesover.blogspot.com

carbon fiber simmons deluxe!

jesse from black apache sent me this via surfapig@live.com:here's one i thought ya's might like its a 5'6" simmons deluxe. stringerless eps/epoxy full carbon fibre wrap, with carbon backed fins. this one is going to be ridiculously fast......
ever since my little run with john cherry's simmons...i have had a place in my heart for these things.

102310

this has been an unusual october. the rain has warshed a rut in the trail.

when i got to the beach, i nearly didn't paddle out. it was chunky. then i thought about the fact that i am at the beach , with a surfboard, i have my health, and there are ridable waves breaking. it was pure logic at that point.
a bird!
i was stoked i paddled out. i sat to far north at first. my buddy phil of sliders was getting all the good ones. eventually i found my way to the spot.
look ma! i'm an artist!!! this is a shot taken with my cell phone, like all the others on this post. except for this one i used photo shop to give it a photo-shop pseudo analog lo-fi look. you know, its important to keep up with the trends!
i have a shit ton of photos of my fin. Gene is a smart mother fucker. putting the cooperfish logo on my fin has his brand in all the shots i tend to gravitate toward.
another bird!
it went through periods of glassy conditions today. there was a stretch where i had some incredible waves. i am SO grateful for the board i have.
classic sliders point. a short boarder missed the section, a nice one out the back.
i was stoked on a few rights today!
that is my buddy troy taking off on a BOMB! he scored this wave all the way into the bay.
the wave after troy's
how i reproduced such a beautiful daughter is beyond my understanding.
the estuary.

life is precious.

we should all take a moment to be thankful to have our health. you never know how lucky you are , until you hurt something.

i have a friend that is in the hospital. i spoke to him and his wife. i believe he will be fine.

mid week stoke generators.

i haven't put any photos from Richard Holcombe up in a while. Here are a few gems. i got a nice barrel on the day pictured below.

this is a different day, on my first blackboard.
i love the composition of this shot. that pelican was probably surfing that wave, and pulled up right when it pitched. it will probably drop in beyond the section, or on the wave behind this one.
the picture below just speaks to me....makes me want to surf.
the video below spoke to me for reasons i am not sure about.

cobblestone slipperies // dane peterson

nathan oldfield sent me a link to this via surfapig@live.com:

i'd surf it!

101710

today was a productive day. i woke up and did some chores. yawn patrolled my way to sliders. after a couple hours of sliding the corner at sliders, i came home and tutored. after tutoring i did more chores. now, i have a clean house, a happy wife, a healthy daughter, and a little post to keep me stoked this week. NICE! the inside was where to be. you can see that wave behind this crisp one.

the average rain fall for october at sliders is .3 inches. i'd say this is not an average year.
i was so stoked today even though there were a few people out. when i was changing into my shorts and jacket , i saw the corner working. however... i paddled up to the peak at first. i was stoked i did, i picked a beautiful set wave off before i even got my hair wet. i was trying to stay on the corner but would find my self up top.
a fungus among us.
it was a day of some great cutbacks, bottom turns, nose rides, and a few nice curl shoots. i was super stoked on this one where i had pig dogged this right "goofy footed". i had to put my right foot forward to keep the weight high on my inside rail. it was a great wave. it was a meaty insider that just kept training down the bay. it just kept throwing out in front of me. i thought i wouldn't make this section at several moments in the ride... i was super stoked to make it out the back.
check the video!