Saturday, October 16, 2010


i surfed amazing waves today. i surfed the north end of sliders. this picture was not took today. it was taken the last time i surfed there back in September. i have a client that lives right on the beach at this spot. after my work was finished i jumped out for a quick surf. today was BEAUTIFUL. i didn't have my camera or my phone, i walked down to the beach in my trunks and wet suit jacket. my video camera was at the house, we had filmed our daughter some this morning. when i got to the beach i was taken back by how beautiful everything looked. the waves were perfectly shaped..slightly over head, the light was diffused. the color of the ocean was this slate blue/ grey. the tide was such that the water just lapped up on the sand. i felt a little ping of regret that i didn't have any way to capture what i was seeing. then i thought it was silly to be so concerned about capturing what i was experiencing...just experience life. no need to think about is strange to go left. i have been forcing myslef to go left more frequently. this spot is a left. i had a great wave where i was trimmed up high on my board charging through a beautiful glassy wall. i was SO stoked. it is crazy how much one can get out of doing nothing. i was just slightly crouched kinda cave man style. kinda like the ceramic mexican surfing monkey piggy bank. to be so stoked from just not moving my body, but having so much water traveling so fast so close to me. it was very peaceful... the light and the colors. warm water too. this board feels so solid.

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