there is a lesson in here somewhere....
did i think this waves was going to "get in front of me" or "close out" when i paddled for it? sort of. i mean i had my suspicions. i paddled for this bomb. it was a wave that the potato chip but wiggling thruster kids couldn't get to in time. a wide swinger. had i not gone, no one would have. i saw it start to go in front of me. should i have pulled in? it was a tight , narrow tube. what you don't see is the left coming at me. should i just have said "who cares? i'm going to get in this one?" i don't know...i do know what i choose...i choose to stand tall, and feel it for what it was giving me at that time. i held onto that moment for the time i could. i think there are moments in life like this. there are choices... you make one in a split second, and hold onto it for the time you can.p.s. thanks miles cooper for the sequence!!!!
yeah Mike!
ReplyDeleteCheers Jason!!!!!
ReplyDeleteatta boy mikey!!!! check out the yater sequence from postmodern surfer.com at rincon. as always thanx for sharing.owoooo!!!!
ReplyDeleteawesome post bro!!!
ReplyDeleteCheers gents!
ReplyDeleteI searched "yater sequence" and got nothing.
Do you have a link?
go to you tube, type in either renny yater surfing or sacred craft 2010. great footage of renny standing tall back in '63. you know there is also some footage of joey cabell standing tall surfing Haliewa in one of bruce browns early films, i believe "barefoot adventure".
ReplyDeleteWill do!! Cheers!!!
ReplyDeleteStay there for a few moments, no matter the wave is gonna be ........ this magic moment is in your heart.
ReplyDeleteIt means a lot for me.
Keep on, maestro!!!!
cheers from Spain!!!