surfed with my buddy jason and my other buddy cheyne today. its a funny thing...surfing is surfing... i mean, the beginning, middle and end of it is ...you, the wave and what ever you ride. sometimes surfing by yourself is just what the doctor ordered, other times surfing with some buddies and 3000 kooks chasing the (hyped) swell of the millennia is what the doctor ordered. today was the later. fun day, stoked to be around friends!
Friday, September 2, 2011
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