Wednesday, November 18, 2009


my buddy Dan and I were surfing this spot one day. it is not on the mainland of California but it is in southern California (...hint, hint, wink . wink). this particular day we motored up and saw this wave crackin just so. I had my carson, dan was on a 10'2 malibu foil he calls "moose". He and I jumped off and paddled over there after we had smoked some ceremonial herbs. i was busy listening to the crinkling sounds the water made as I was paddling to the peak. once there we were elated. it was empty. a few people showed up. we were surfing the spot for about 3 hours with a light crowd. dan lost his board a few times and had to climb over the gnarliest barnacles to retrieve his board. i remember seeing that and feeling sick to my stomach just imagining it was me doing the swimming and the climbing. however, i don't think it was the imagining that had my stomach in knots. i think it was my need to defecate. eventually i stripped my wet suit and purged my bowls. everyone went in to eat and relax. i told dan i was going to stay out because the surf was so good. he decided to join me. we surfed for about another 1.5 hours. right when our buddies were going to jump back in to surf some more , a ton of people showed up to SSHHHRREEEDDD! dan and i were tired and our stoke had been accumulated. NICE!! it always felt like there was a shark just about to get us while we were out there.

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