Thursday, September 30, 2010


today was a day not to be missed. late summer early fall is what southern california is ALL ABOUT! FEEEE-YYYYUUUUCK! i am SO STOKED i didn't have to work today. never mind the fact i have a beautiful healthy daughter, a beautiful understanding healthy wife, a loving family, insane surfboards, a creative career I am passionate about....but ALL DAYS....i wanted it, i NEEDED it...but i feel as if i don't deserve it. WTF!
the sky these past 2 days around my neck of the woods has been EPIC. straight opal-essence.
i was stoked to see so few cars in the parking lot this morning. i walked down the trail thinking it was going to be a rad sesh. the weather was beautiful, and the birds were chirping, bunnies were hopping. i walked under the tracks and labored through the soft sand. was then that things seemed off. i walked up to see and empty beach and an empty line up. it was 7:45 or so.
a set rolled through and i began to run.
as i was almost ripping my wetsuit that i shouldn't have been wearing ( the water must be 68)...i was convinced i was dreaming.
the sky shot with my phone.
i surfed for near 3 hours. i don 't know how life has taken me here...but i'll accept it and cherish it. my cooperfish blackboard flex is consistently BLOWING my mind. I had a handful of barrels. just about every wave gave me an opportunity to refine or re-learn learn how to ABSOLUTELY BURRY the rail and swing off the bottom. there were some wonderful nose rides through critical sections....the high density foam sits deep, allowing for controlled, trusted late take offs.
i do not believe the video below was actually shot by me. i think it was a dream.


  1. You do deserve amazing days like today sweetheart! I love u!

  2. we are goin brite and early manana morning takin my greg Liddle 9'2 L spoon down maybe we'll see you there...these vids just got me pumped even if its half the size...cant beat the weather

  3. cheyne,

    i will be working. report back please!