Sunday, February 6, 2011


this morning was spooky. i'll get back to that in a bit... there is a circus going on down at sliders today and yesterday. some kind of gremmie contest. haven't they watched jazz the glass?... "surfing's for everyone no one owns the waves!"..."shut up KOOK!" ...whatever. yesterday i had to evacuate the point 'cuz all the "johnny you have a 3.79, you need a 4.63 to advance... que bob marley 'get up stand up...don't forget your rights'...5 minutes remaining, five minutes" bullshit over the loud speakers was harshing the mellow. thats fine , i still caught my fill, albeit in a less peaceful setting than is normal down at the corner. after yesterday's experience , i decided i was going to super ultra crack it today. i wanted to be in my wetsuit on the water's edge by 6. i was. it was dark. there was fog all around. there was some bubble of a no fog zone right at slider's though. that was rad. you could see fog just out side, it was in town, and it was south of us...just none at sliders. there is no one on the beach. there is no one in the water. i paddle out. i am spooked. it just had that "you will be eaten by a great white today" vibe. the colors right over the point start to GO OFF. the white water was opal-essence, the water was coke bottle green, the sky was pink /orange/blue/purple off to the east and right over head. the dense fog banks had this violet shade working right on their frontier, but at their core it was BLACK. they look menacing. i was sitting out in the line up lost in the time space continuum. i saw a school of bait fish spread this way and that ...just off the nose of my board. then a piece of kelp brushed my foot. i almost defecated in my wetsuit. eventually a set came....FEEE-YYYUUUCCCKK!!! so clean! just a beautifully lit chest high peeler. pulled into a fluorescent pink almond shaped curl came out and layed my board down on it's rail...proceeded to trim up on the nose all the way across the point. it was surreal. i was the only one out for 40 minutes (what a contrast to yesterday's scene!), finally a pack of gremmies showed up at about 6:45. these photos were taken after i got out of the water. the fog banks had finally popped that bubble that had existed earlier in the morning. that bubble of no fog was probably there from 6 - 7:15.
birds , people
give you an idea of the shape
a nice little A-frame.
something i have been meaning to write for a while, but i keep forgetting..... this blackboard i have is INSANE. the foam is strong. my deck is in amazing shape. every other board i have ever owned...the deck gets dented up..not this board. the deck... everywhere, NO PRESSURE dings. anywhere. that says something to boards usually get pretty beat up.

No comments:

Post a Comment