Sunday, May 16, 2010

if you surf , then you are lucky.

yesterday after catching some great waves at the point, i went with a buddy and dropped my '58 balsa velzy jacobs off at john cherry's to get freshened up. this is the board Gene got at the surf board swap thing down at dana point, it is the surf board my wife bought me for christmas, and it is the basis for the blackboard. to say i am excited to see how this comes out is an under statement. just having the opportunity to own such an incredible board is one thing, but to have a master freshen her up for riding is an entire other level of fortune. Whilst at Mr. Cherry's I saw some balsa. he has some INSANE balsa. I was shocked at how light it was. I can't wait to be shredding this board. you can BET once she is freshened up I will shoot some proper pix and post them up. this board is in AMAZING shape as it is...but it had a few issues that needed some love. John said his first board was one of these. fate. below is a pic from sliders this morning.
blurry pictures (especially portraits) mean you are artistic.
these reeds are so vibrant before they turn blah.
the walk out this morning. i'll take it.
i was inspired by the composition.
snail trails.
the lefts have been creepin in as of late. i've got my eye on them.
check this video. i know from the pic it looks like it is a video of rocks... but don't let that deter you. today was an AMAZING day out there. it was inconsistent, but the water had that fluffy texture. or rather it lacked any texture. the water felt frictionless. it was truly a day at sliders point. there were two unreal waves today where i thought i had captured them on video , only to end the wave and find out i had hit the wrong button, or hadn't hit the correct button properly. classic. after catching some great waves (nose rides, cut backs, and curlshoots) i came in to get some footage. on my way in, this kook catches a wave. well, i say he was a kook due to the awkward paddle he had going on and his lack of control once he fumbled his way up to his feet. he had that classic stink bug/wide stance. he had desire though. he scored this wave and stuck it out long enough to be on the face. he took a long time getting up, hence he was down in the flats of the wave. when he got to his feet and stink bugged his way to the face, the lip through over him...PERFECTLY. home boy got a CLEAN barrel. in and out. DRY. he kept on the face for a bit and then flopped out the back of the wave. he was SOOO stoked. he started hooting. I paddled over to him and threw him a shaka. told him i saw his barrel. if that guy wasn't totally hooked on surfing before yesterday..i guarantee he is today. i finally made it to the beach. while on the beach filming this and that...i saw this teenage kid that humbled me. the kid couldn't surf. ever. he was just sitting in the lagoon experiencing the water. someone had brought him down to the beach so he could be happy and feel the water.

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