Sunday, April 25, 2010

pig slide at SLIDERS!!!!!

the surf was very nice today. the texture of the water was just right. the size and shape proclaimed: "YE SHALL RIDE THE LOG!!!" and that i did. so did my buddy tim of sliders. i really love this wave.
i have this strange attraction for symmetry. the depth and fractal nature of this fence is EPIC. i had been thinking about how to get the pattern of the chain link fence in such a way as to honor the pattern. i got it with this one. you have to love phone cameras.
walking up and seeing this. how do you think your session is going to be?
talk about fundamental fractal.
obligatory A frame.
as randall rodstoker would say "so clean."
my board blurring by me this morning on the walk down. thanks be to tom of sliders for sliding my board down.
neat little flowers.
check this video. there were so many EPIC waves going by unridden today.
to say i had fun out there is a massive understatement. it was a day where you could relax and really drive your board through top turns a bottom turns. late stand up style off the bottom, like you were matt howard or something. i had a few INSANE curl shots. it was a day where it felt like all the waves were coming to me. i even went left a few times today. i got out of the water due to a feeling of guilt. i felt bad that i was ALWAYS in the right place. it was a great day.

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