Thursday, August 26, 2010


i have been trying to break my routine as of late. i do not see my routine as "bad"...but rather, i just want to know why my routine is what it is. i figure , force myself to do something different, and perhaps that will shed light on why i do what i do. take today for example. after checking the weather, and reflecting on tuesday's slider's crowd's attitude, i decided to give "not sliders" a go (i prefer the less hyped days). i get to the waves and quickly realize why i surf sliders....for the second time in a week. ( i am starting to see why my routine is my routine.... tried and true is tried and true). i drive a bit more and go into "shark city". i was surprised there wasn't a line to get into the chest to head high textured lumpy chunks. as i was in the parking lot i ran into 2 people i know. donald and ned. that was cool. donald and i went for a quick surf. that was cool. i am stoked to go out and surf marginal waves and still have a blast. i love this blackboard i am on.

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