Wednesday, July 22, 2009

the ba na na dip!

i will begin this with an apology. i am sorry. there are countless pictures of sick pigs in the foreground and ridiculously epic waves in the back ground. i hope you all scored today. here at sliders it was EPIC. i am humbled by the feedback I am getting concerning my boards performance. strangers commenting about how stylish and functionally I surfed that barrel and the likes. makes me feel like a show off. writing about it too boot! classic. i will say this. my first wave was a cheater 5 head dip. i'll take it. the water was so glassy. sparkly, twinkly. NICE!! i tittled this post the banana dip due to this guys comment today after I scored a beautiful bomb out the back. on this particular wave I kept a low center of gravity through the drop. once I got to the bottom I stood up straight going into the bottom turn. the board took off like a rocket ship. I threw my hands back and arched my back just trying to keep a hold of the board. I had the posture of the oniell logo. right as the wave pitched over I pulled my arms in and tucked my head.

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