Monday, February 15, 2010

please don't be mad at me.

that is how i felt today. it was one of those days where the EPIC waves kept coming to me, and ...and there was no one around that could have even caught them on the inside...i was in the spot where if i didn't catch the wave it would have gone by unridden. so why should i ask people not to be mad at me?...well, at times people get angry when good things happen to you out in the water ...over and over and over and over in ones session. today, i had about an hour of a conveyor belt style barrel run. probably 3 or 4 super clean stand up barrels. that shite just doesn't happen to me. i think it has a lot to do with this board i rode today. I was on the COOPERFISH BLACKBOARD prototype 2. it sits in the water differently than my other blackboard. my other blackboard accelerates more rapidly that the BBII, but the BBII is faster over least that is what i felt today. BBII sits in the right part of the wave, with BBI i find myself cutting back to stay where I want to be. i am so lucky ..i hope anyone reading this finds some "lazy point breaks and glassy tubes" . i shot the photos below of the wave framed by the driftwood and of the surfer in the last photo. RH shot the others.

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