Friday, July 23, 2010


i am entering a new phase of life. i am aware of my fortunate position in life. i was happy this morning when my wife said she felt well and was able to rest last night. she gave me the blessing "i hope your sessions is good." naturally that put a smile on my face. i walk down the trail. i see some glassy peaks. today was one of those pig perfect days. light off shore... waist to chest. slightly on the inconsistent side of things. i am humbled by how often i get this wave, and how incredibly perfect it is for the boards i ride. i see some of my buddies are already getting some. i paddle out and proceed to score some perfect relaxing waves. the type of session that gave me an opportunity to express my DEEP understanding of this cooperfish blackboard i am on. it was pure surfing... cerebral. my chemically composed board was a link into the energy of the wave ... this kinetic event grew through me until it caused my emotion, my thoughts to leave the now. then the dolphins surfaced. i couldn't have been more stoked. it made me feel stoked. i was mining stoke.